The Road to Reykholt – A Journey Through Hellisheiði

There are actually three very different ways to reach Reykholt. Each route has its own character, atmosphere, and memorable moments along the way. The first route is the one most people from the capital area know best – the road across Hellisheiði.

As you leave the city behind and begin approaching Hveradalir, the journey truly begins. Steam rising from the earth beside the road immediately catches your attention, along with the unmistakable sulfur scent that Iceland is so famous for. Some people love it, while others describe it as the smell of rotten eggs – but for most Icelanders, it is simply part of the experience and a reminder of the powerful geothermal energy beneath the surface.

Then comes Hellisheiði itself. The weather can change within minutes, and the views open up over mountains, lava fields, and vast landscapes. As the road descends down Kambar, many Icelanders remember childhood advice from family road trips; chewing gum to help with the pressure in your ears was almost a tradition. Most Icelandic children have probably heard someone say: “Get some chewing gum before we drive down Kambar.”

A stop in Hveragerði is almost essential along the way. It is the perfect place to visit Almar Bakery, a cozy and authentic Icelandic bakery where the smell of fresh baked goods welcomes you the moment you step inside. Warm atmosphere, delicious pastries, and friendly staff make it a memorable part of the journey itself.

The drive then continues toward Selfoss, and just before entering the town, you take the second exit at the roundabout toward Biskupstungur. The pace begins to slow down here. Traffic becomes lighter, the landscape opens up, and you start to feel the journey moving closer to the peace and quiet waiting in Reykholt.

As you reach Þrastarlundur, the scenery changes into something many Icelanders associate with summer. Trees and greenery become more noticeable, and the area almost feels like an Icelandic forest. Many locals own summer houses in this region and spend weekends, holidays, and summer vacations here with family and friends, especially since it is only a short drive from Reykjavík.

Many travelers also choose to stop at Kerið along the way. This volcanic crater lake, with its deep red slopes and striking blue-green water, is one of Iceland’s most famous volcanic craters and beautiful in every season. A short walking path circles the crater, offering stunning views over the water and surrounding landscape. It is worth noting that parking at Kerið is paid parking.

After Kerið, the journey continues through Biskupstungur, where the countryside slowly takes over completely. The roads become quieter, the air feels fresher, and the views stretch across green fields, distant mountains, and small farms that seem untouched by time.

During summer, this part of the drive is especially beautiful when the evening sunlight covers the landscape in warm golden tones. In winter, the silence becomes even more noticeable as snow blankets the countryside and the lights from homes and farms glow warmly in the darkness.

As you get closer to Reykholt, you often begin to notice how the journey itself has slowed your mind down. The noise and rush of the city feel far away, replaced by a sense of calm that can be difficult to find elsewhere. Perhaps that is what makes this route so special – it is not simply about getting from one place to another, but about becoming part of the experience itself.

And when you finally arrive, whether at the hotel or one of the cottages, it often feels as though you have traveled much farther than the actual kilometers would suggest. All that is left is to check in with our welcoming staff, settle into your room or cottage, and take the opportunity to relax in the hot tub after the journey.